Category Archives: Food Writing

Convivium

“By the River Cousin” in Death by Pad Thai and Other Unforgettable Meals ed. by Douglas Bauer. Claire Messud doesn’t remember the details of the food served (it was good) but she does recall with warmth the harmonious intercourse of … Continue reading

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Rapprochements

Gay Bilson in Plenty: Digressions on food has a chapter that takes the title and form of a pillow book. The first of the entries plays to the ear. “Things that make one’s heart beat faster” I walked through the … Continue reading

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Tooting Tubers

The late Ingmar Bergman has a wonderful scene in Fanny and Alexander where a candle is blown out by a fart and then the screen goes black. In honour of that memory, this passage from Ridie Wilson Ghezzi’s introduction to … Continue reading

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Candied Chestnuts

Ephemera entrances. On the inside cover of a box of Motta Marrons glacés one finds a beautiful silhouette (gold on blue) of castanea sativa, the chestnut tree, and to the side of the illustration is a passage from Robert Bourdu, … Continue reading

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Timing

Gay Bilson in Plenty: Digressions on Food recalling the closing of a restaurant after 18 years of operating it. Her reaction to a “gesture” The timing was perfect and we were taken by surprise, but I was faking it. Oh, … Continue reading

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Commensal

Peter Mayle towards the end of Toujours Provence offers some observations about two expressions that serve phatic functions and then some: Depending on inflection, ah bon can express shock, disbelief, indifference, irritation, or joy — a remarkalbe achievement for two … Continue reading

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Occasions

Simone, Louisette and Julia afix their initials to the Commonwealth edition of the forward to Mastering the Art of French Cooking and thus above those signature elements can be read: This is a book for the servantless cook who can … Continue reading

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